An idyllic green patchwork nestled between two bays and jutting into Bass Strait - the Mornington Peninsula is the home to some of Australia’s top emerging cool climate wines. By definition this can be a difficult environment for grape growing but through great care and not inconsiderable investments the area has conquered its early teething stages to mature as Australia’s best pinot noir producing area and a genuine contender for world recognition. If there was any doubt, a recent analysis of James Halliday’s latest authoritative guide has shown that the region is not only producing the largest number of rated pinot noir wines but has the highest average score and the highest percentage of wines in the top categories.

The environment, or ‘terroir’ as the French call it, is ideally suited to producing great pinot noir. Indeed the climate is very similar in terms of temperature and sunshine to the famed Burgundy area of France. An important feature is the beneficial prolonged gentle autumn which allows the grapes to hang on the vine and develop complex flavors over an extended period. The cool climate and ripening conditions also allow fine tannin and good acid development which combined with the flavours of fully ripened grapes result in high quality wines. These climatic conditions also explain why the Mornington Peninsula is also producing very good ‘burgundian’ style chardonnay. But ‘terroir’ is more than climate: geology, soils, slopes and organic conditions all have their part to play. A visitor to the area will soon discover the variation in flavours that can result from each unique site and area. Around Red Hill, red basaltic soils attracted some early pioneers in viticulture and some of the largest and best producers such as Main Ridge Estate, Red Hill Estate and Montalto can be found here. Newer vineyards making a name for fine pinot noir and chardonnay of great length and intensity have tended to be clustered in a band on less fertile soils and warmer slopes from Moorooduc in the north to Balnarring in the South. These vineyards include Moorooduc Estate, Yabby Lake, Kooyong, Hurley, Silverwood and Willow Creek. There are now over 200 vineyards on all parts of the Peninsula and over 50 of these vineyards have cellar doors open to the public so the choice for a visit is endless.

While traditional winemaking is the norm on the Peninsula, there is also cutting edge and innovative use of wild yeast, exclusive use of expensive French oak and passionate local and ‘flying’ winemakers who are well connected to their counterparts in Burgundy. Look out for wines made by Sandro Mosele, Tod Dexter, Philip Kittle and Lindsay McCall. Some of the hallmarks of Mornington Peninsula pinot noir are morello/dark cherry flavours, silky tannins and long lingering finish. Significant improvements have been achieved over recent vintages as a result of investments in viticulture and benchmarking. This is a region where pinot noir is taken very seriously indeed. The other variety that shines on the Mornington Peninsula is pinot noir’s Burgundian stablemate: chardonnay, which typically produces fine and elegant wines with citrus and white stone fruit flavours predominating.

With its natural beauty and proximity to Melbourne, the Mornington Peninsula is an ideal location for a visit. The growth and improvement in new vineyards on the Peninsula has not been restricted to improved viticulture and winemaking, as the area is intent on providing the complete wine tourism experience. A range of cellar doors from well appointed modern architecture to simple and rustic are all friendly and welcoming to visitors. Associated art exhibitions and concerts add to the visitor experience. Montalto runs an annual sculpture exhibition, as well as their regular Farmers Markets …… Montalto has been named 2006 Best Victorian Winery Destination at the International Best of Wine Tourism Awards. To enhance the visit experience, a plethora of fine vineyard restaurants specialising in using fresh regional produce have been established. Overlooking the vines and rolling hills you can enjoy the fine food match with some great Mornington Peninsula wines. Some of these establishments offer simple fare for lunches and afternoon snacks but others such as Stillwater at Crittenden’s and Vines offer cuisine to rival some of Melbourne’s top restaurants.

Article by Paul Dennis

copyright 2007